HEMA in nail products: what is it & is it banned?
By Jess Watts | 14 March 2026 | News & Events
HEMA is a chemical widely used in nail products including gel polish, acrylic systems and nail primers. Comments circulating on social media have suggested a UK-wide ban on the substance, leaving nail professionals increasingly concerned. Let’s break down what HEMA is, what the current regulations say and whether there is any truth to the rumours…
What is HEMA?
Hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA), is a chemical monomer that polymerises to create a high-durability product when exposed to UV/LED light. The chemical is widely used in nail products due to its adhesive properties and advanced strength. Acting as a binding agent, HEMA helps gel polish, acrylic systems and nail primers adhere to the nail plate.
HEMA is not exclusive to the nail industry. It is a key component of printing inks and is used by the pharmaceutical industry in products such as contact lenses and dental fillings.
Allergies & misunderstanding
While HEMA is used in a number of industries, it has sparked concern within the nail world due to a rise in allergic reactions. HEMA is a known allergen, and repetitive skin contact can eventually trigger a reaction, as is the case with any chemical ingredient not intended to come into contact with skin.
Internationally respected authority in cosmetic chemistry and nail product safety, Doug Schoon, shares: “The issue is not that HEMA is automatically unsafe in nail products. The risk rises when uncured product gets on the skin and/or when product is not properly cured, which can lead to irritation and, in some cases, skin allergy.
“This is more likely to happen when nail products are poorly formulated and do not properly cure, which is too often the case.”
“For this reason, regulation only permits HEMA and a similar ingredient, called DI-HEMA trimethylhexyl dicarbamate, to be used in products for professional use only,” adds Caroline Rainsford, director of science at The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA).
Current regulations
“Regulatory guidelines related to HEMA use in nail products vary by country and region,” reads an article on training platform, NailKnowledge. “In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates nail products and sets guidelines for the safe use of ingredients like HEMA. In Europe and the UK, they have also established guidelines for the safe use of HEMA in nail products.”
On the subject of current UK and EU HEMA regulations, Doug Schoon notes: “In the EU, HEMA (2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) is restricted to professional-use nail products, and those products must carry the warnings ‘For professional use only’ and ‘Can cause an allergic reaction’. These requirements applied starting June 3, 2021 and September 3, 2021, under Commission Regulation (EU) 2020/1682.”
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HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) concentrations in UK professional nail products typically range from 4% to 35%, with a recommended maximum limite of 35%.
Is HEMA banned in the UK?
Social media has seen a wave of discourse surrounding HEMA, with rumours circulating that a ban is already in place – or is on the way – in the UK and EU. The experts, however, are united in their response.
Caroline Rainsford states: “CTPA is not aware of any plans from the UK or EU authorities to change the way that HEMA and DI-HEMA trimethylhexyl dicarbamate are currently regulated.”
Doug Schoon is equally unambiguous, saying: “Claims that HEMA is banned (or about to be banned) are not supported.”
Though a ban is currently not planned for professional products, many brands have released HEMA-free product ranges for nail techs seeking to offer an alternative to sensitive clients. Professionals should continue to practice the craft safely to minimise the risk of exposure for both themselves and their clients – such as wearing gloves and avoiding skin contact at all times.
